Thursday, January 31, 2013

My 65th birthday


I had a wonderful day.  It started by Vicky making me a red velvet birthday cake--my choice.






 

Then I had breakfast in bed.  And although we usually eat breakfast in bed, this was special.



We took a long bike ride:



Then we had dinner (again my choice:)


 I got gifts!












and my cake!


Then we went out to a dance and lo and behold ran into some friends from Whidbey Island.  Small world.









So ends Road trip 2.1   Tomorrow we park the camper and fly to Fort Collins and then on to Whidbey Island.

Monday, January 28, 2013

Alice's Restaurant II



It has been two hours since I drove ¾ of a mile down the road to push the emergency call button.  The sign near it states that someone will “arrive shortly” to help us. 

Meanwhile, overhead, jets fly high—the Barry M. Goldwater Air Force Range being right next to Organ Pipe National Monument.  Millions and millions of dollars wrapped up in each jet.  Mega-billions of dollars and lives spent on wars in the past 60 years that were not necessary and didn’t make us any safer. 

We returned from our incredible hike up the hill to talk with our new friend David, from England, who we had run into a couple of weeks ago at Madera Canyon, who informed us that a Spanish speaking man was sleeping on one of the picnic tables.  He was not a hiker.  Had one of the black jugs for water that we have seen strewn throughout Organ Pipe National Monument that are brought up from Mexico—a disgrace really.  A single illegal alien?  Someone scouting out our area?  Someone who got cut off from his group?  Someone dumped from his group because he was in trouble and couldn’t keep up?  David said he was told that sometimes scouts will be sent to observe what will happen before a larger group arrives.  Or what?  

OK.  So, what do you do?

Then I went over to our campsite to find that the Forest Ranger had been here and had removed our bird feeder and left us this note.  I feel like I am in the movie Alice’s Restaurant.  But instead of being busted for littering, like Arlo Guthrie did, I am busted for feeding birds. Where is the Audubon Defense Fund when you need it?



So, the three of us sort of stood around and looked at each other, hoping someone would come up with a brilliant idea that never came.  Ignore the situation?  Help him?  He looked to be in awful shape.  Is helping someone who is breaking the law against the law?  After all I already had one strike against me for feeding the birds, so I didn’t want to do that.  We were advised by Forest Rangers to not help ‘illegals.”  What kind of people are we to be afraid of someone who might only need fresh water? 

But that’s what we were, like people are prone to be, actually, and that is to be afraid of situations that are outside our range of experience. 

We just came here to hike, not to be confronted with reality.  Or to have to make tough moral decisions. 

Finally, after much discussion, we decided to ACT!  We would call 9-1-1. 

No signal.

Next idea.  One of us go down the road ¾ of a mile to an emergency call button we had seen driving into the campground.  So I go.


Isn’t this a weird sign?  This is somebody’s drawing of real people?  Looks like it is for reporting Aliens from Area 51 or Roswell rather than from Mexico. 

Drive back to the campground.  Guy still asleep.

Waiting for Border Patrol who is going to “arrive shortly” to help us…….Waiting…….Waiting……Waiting……

Finally the guy wakes up, and hobbles off.  Unless he has done a lot of hiking, and actually even if he has, he is probably tired, sore, and hurting. 


The irony doesn’t escape me, or maybe the absurdity.   I get busted for feeding birds.  Meanwhile, overhead, millions of dollars of wasted money on jets for wars we start ourselves, and down here we can’t get the Forest Rangers or the Border Patrol to make us feel safe when someone is breaking the law and we don’t know if he is alone or with many other people and whether he is dangerous or not.    And nobody comes when we push the button.

Where is the Border Patrol?  From what we can tell, they sit at highway border patrol stations, dozens of them, to catch people stupid enough to just drive over the border.  Do people really get caught that way? 

But out here in the sticks, where people desperate enough to travel this inhospitable desert and then come into contact with us?  Nobody.  Why isn’t the Border Patrol putting on hiking packs and walking out to the remote areas where they are?  Maybe they do and we just don’t see them.  I know it’s an impossible job. But we don't see them when we hike the desert, ever.

A couple of guys at our campsite told us that what a lot of the illegal aliens do is go over the other side of the mountain next to us because then they are in the Tohono O’Odham Nation Reservation (which looks to be the size of Connecticut), where the rules are more lax.  If true, what are we still doing with Indian Reservations that are quasi-nations inside our own nation and that have different rules about immigration? 

We are still waiting. 

Another jet just flew overhead.

Finally a car arrived with a couple that was here to do the short hike.  I asked them if when they returned to the other camp ground if they would stop into the Visitor’s Center and ask someone to come out here.  Apparently they did because a Forest Ranger arrived about an hour later.

He explained that the call button we pushed was for the Border Patrol—it isn’t tied into the Park Service.  How is that for coordination among law enforcement?  Right in the middle of the National Monument and the local law enforcement isn’t tied into it? 

At the button there is a sign that says to remain there, but I figured that sensible reasoning would be that if someone in an official capacity got there and found no one, that the obvious thing to do would be to drive ¾ of a mile to the campground where it is known there is no 9-1-1 service.  Apparently not. 

He checked the area.  We explained that we didn’t know if the guy was going to make it—he looked done (sleeping on a picnic table in the middle of the day), had come from an odd part of the desert (i.e., north), suggesting he was lost, and was hobbling.  Plus, there is no water here, so all he had was the one gallon black jug, and if he had come from Mexico, that wouldn’t have lasted long.

We found out that the first time (or maybe more) they are caught they are just transported back.  A few days later will try again.  I think I understood him to say that it is only after repeated attempts that short jail time is given. 

So, what is the risk of trying?  Other than dying in the desert I mean.

Would severe penalties the first time deter people from trying or make them more desperate to not get caught and therefore turn regular people into dangerous people.  Desperate people are scary in any circumstance, so maybe more severe penalties wouldn’t be better.  I don’t know the answer to this, but I’m sure it has been thought through by people with far more experience than I have.

It is all so confusing. 

I asked the Forest Ranger if he could do more checks of the campground for the next day or so, and he said he would.  And he did.  On our way to Mesa the next day we called the Visitors Center to tell them our campsite would be open, and we made a point of asking the person to thank the Ranger.  We really appreciated this.

I can understand now, better than I once did, when Arizona officials say to the rest of the country:  “You just don’t understand.  We are the ones who are having to deal with this impossible problem.”  And although I don’t agree with the policies Arizona tried to implement, even at the time I could recognize that the US Government, being almost totally stalemated on everything, was doing nothing. 

The next day, driving out of our campground, we saw this.  Three people caught, sitting, with their hands tied behind their backs.  Was our guy one of them (was dressed the same, but maybe there is are fairly standard, dark clothes that are worn to be less noticeable in the desert), and there really were more than one as David suggested there might be? 


Later, I stopped at Border Patrol and talked with some agents, suggesting that they put a call button near the campground.  They seemed to be sincerely trying to listen, but somehow did not appear to understand the predicament.  They said the call button was where it was because that wash was one that a lot of illegal aliens come up, and they push it when they need help.  In other words, the call button isn’t for us—it is for illegal aliens.  I don’t have a problem with this, but how about one for, you know…..us too?

I don’t think it really dawned on them how vulnerable we felt there at a camp ground with no 9-1-1- service, and with evidence of illegal aliens all around (including, of course, RIGHT THERE!).  Maybe because they carry guns, and are all young people (mostly men) who are experienced, they can’t quite imagine being old geezers who are not heavily armed.  But my idea for an emergency call button at the camp ground didn’t meet with an enthusiastic reception—they listened, but I’m sure that was as far as it went.

We left two days early.  It was raining, hard, and the desert was a muddy quagmire.  We knew we couldn’t hike for at least two days, and so decided to make the day a travel day.

 And after David left, there was only one other campsite occupied, and we didn’t want to stay out there by ourselves if they left and no one else came.  We were bit unnerved by the events that had transpired, and so invoked, once again, our safety rule. 

This is our favorite campground ever.  It is beautiful, and it a place where one can enjoy the silence of the desert while still having basic amenities (no generators, but toilets and trash pickup).  The hiking possibilities are endless.  We hope that the solution isn’t to just close it.  Our government’s job is to keep us safe, its primary duty.  Restricting our use of our country isn’t the way of doing that.  Those jets flying over certainly aren’t cutting it.   

I just read an article in the New York Times about how New York has become our safest large city, yet has low incarceration rates.  How?  They have increased the number of police officers and have focused on “hot spots.”  That suggests that more “police” presence at our National Forests, Parks, and Monuments in the border areas might be considered.  At Rucker Campground in the Chiricahua Mountains there was NOBODY.  Just us, and a sign warning us. 

Why haven’t we seen any Border Patrol agents back in the desert on our hikes?  The "hot spots" like the picnic area we discovered two days ago.  If we did see Border Patrol agents patrolling the desert, might not everybody else?



Addendum: 

Here is the sign that has the rule I broke.  Technically we weren’t feeding the birds human food, but bird food.  But I see the point.  With songbird populations in serious decline, though, (see the Audubon web site) I think feeding birds is different from feeding coyotes, but if that’s the rule, that’s the rule.  


Here is a shot of “our” hill in the morning rain.  Gives a good view of the ridge we followed to the top.  


 





Hike to the top of the hill













Today we decided to hike to the top of a hill.  It was about two miles from our campground, and it looked like something we might be able to do.

Now, looking like something we could do from a distance is quite different from looking like something we can do close up.  We realize this.  From a distance, the desert looks flat, with grassy knolls to tra-la-la through.  We have learned, though, that the desert is anything but easy.  There are washes to deal with, rocks one can’t see from a distance, steep climbs and cliffs that are only visible when one is close to them.  


This hill was no different.  Our challenge was finding the right place to start.  We walked to the base, across several washes that were not visible from a distance, to find several areas with large rocks that looked difficult to traverse.  We finally found an opening. 

Then, the rest of the walk up the hill was quite nice—a challenge, but nice.  Has anyone else ever walked up here?  Probably.  In fact, with not a lot of effort the Park Service could create a trail to the top, a safe one.  
 


See the Saguaro Cactus at the top?  

 

That was our goal.  For most of the hike up the hill we couldn’t see it.  And when we saw other Saguaros we kept thinking “that’s it!  We are almost there,” only to find when we got to it that it was only a tease—and another was visible farther up the ridge. 

But we got there.  Here is our cactus!


And the views!  Awesome.  


 

Like with all of our hikes, the post-hike ritual of removing Cholla Cacti from our shoes and clothes (and frequently us).  


 

Arch Canyon Trail: Organ Pipe National Monument





Either of us can invoke the “safety rule” and we turn around and go back.  It is not open for discussion or negotiation.  And afterwards we evaluate what we did, whether we recognized a safety situation quickly enough, etc. 

The Arch Canyon Trail seemed like a fairly benign trail, but only because we really didn’t understand what the description meant.  It actually is a moderately easy trail until the trail ends, at about ¾ of a mile, and then a climb begins on an unofficial trail.  Then it is a scramble/climb along steep ridges.  


 

Talked to park worker later who said that the final ascent requires ropes.  We got a ways up this part of the trail, realized we were in over our heads, invoked the safety rule, and carefully and s-l-o-w-l-y crawled down.  




Our recommendation to most people is to stop at this sign that indicates the trail gets rocky and steep.  We should have.

 

We had a “first” today.  We wondered if we would ever do this.  We ran into someone who we had seen at an earlier stop—David, from England.  We had seen him at Madera Canyon a week earlier.  


We used the rest of the day walking to the Victoria Mine.  An easy 4.2 mile hike with 500 foot elevation gain.  We felt we had earned something easier, and it felt good to just stretch out and walk. 


Rest Stop for Illegal Aliens: Hike to the Saddle







 There is a mountain saddle (because it looks like a horse saddle) between two peaks on the south side of our campground.  It looked doable to reach this spot, even though it meant creating our own trail through the desert. If you look carefully you can see a Saguaro Cactus at the bottom of the saddle--that was our goal.

Desert hiking varies in difficulty.  Some places it is like walking on a sidewalk.  At other times, it is picking one’s way through cacti and down and up through washes.  Slow going.  Lots of back tracking.  That was what it was like today.

The washes show evidence of the power of flooding in this area--huge uprooted plants thrown together with incredible force into tangled messes.  Read in the paper that several hikers were caught in floods in the Tucson area and had to be rescued by helicopter.  Lesson:  Don't hike in the desert in the rain.  

Here are photos of us crossing washes.  



 

Several times today we had to remove from our pants and shoes what is called a Jumping Cholla.  They do seem to jump onto you, like they are alive.  Apparently a whiff of air from walking close to them causes them to detach and follow the airstream to your leg.  And they have this remarkable ability to immediately, even through your clothes, dig their spines into you.  They also have barbs at the end of the spines, so when you pull them out, it is extremely painful.  A very strange plant.


Our first attempt to the saddle was up the west side.  We made it to a point even with the saddle, but could not get over to it—too many areas that were dangerous and steep.  You just can’t see them unless you get near them.   We were level with the cactus that was our goal, but couldn't make it to it.  It was frustrating because we were so close, but after invoking the safety rule, we stopped going that way.

 

So we went back down, crossed a wash, and struggled up the east side.  It was much easier going, relatively speaking.  


 
 
Then when we got close to the saddle, we saw a trail………

What?  A trail?  Here?  


And at the top it was clear that this trail is used by illegal immigrants.  And one group was here having a picnic and was very sloppy.  Shame on them.  Didn’t take them long to act like Americans. 



We cleaned it up so people wouldn’t get bad impressions of illegal immigrants.  After all, we are liberals. 

Here is the cactus that was our goal:


Instead of coming straight down we decided to hike around the mountain and try to meet up with the “ranch” we had seen on the first day.  We figured it was about mile away.  Took us quite awhile, but we found it. 


Quite a rewarding hike, even though the numbers don’t reflect anything much and don’t reflect the difficulty of creating one’s own trail on a desert mountain:  3.4 miles and 500 foot elevation gain.